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Blossom-End Rot looks fairly unappetizing, but it is a common problem, and it is surprisingly easy to treat. Bruises first appear on the bottom of the tomato, which turn into a sunken, misshapen indentation with a leathery appearance. Many people think that the tomato is ruined: it might not be. You can cut off the offending part and eat the remainder. It won't hurt you, even if it gives you the heebie jeebies. That is, until the spot gets too big: a smaller spot is harmless, while a larger spot will eventually take over the whole tomato.
It is caused when the “blossom end” of the tomato breaks down and rots. The rest of the tomato is not (immediately) rotten. Eventually, however, tomato plants with blossom-end rot will have significantly reduced yields, so it is best to intervene quickly, even if you have a tough stomach.
People also ask us for tomato varieties that won't get blossom-end rot. This is tough, because blossom-end rot is not like fusarium wilt or verticillium wilt, for which hybrid tomatoes are bred to be resistant. Blossom-end rot is not a disease. And it is not located in the tomato itself. Celebrity is a tomato variety that we carry that is not as susceptible to calcium deficiency. However, you are better off trying to prevent the problem.
So if it's not a disease, and it's not specific to certain varieties, what on earth is it?! Well folks, you may be surprised to learn that Blossom-End Rot is like osteoporosis for tomatoes: it is effectively caused by a lack of calcium in the soil.
The tomato requires calcium in order to form correctly; if it lacks calcium, the tomato will not form completely.
Luckily, blossom-end rot is one of the easiest ailments to solve! If you catch it soon enough, take the following steps:
Remove all fruit from the stems - even fruit that hasn't formed a dark spot yet. Since the flower has already turned into fruit, it is unlikely that spots won't form. Save the energy of the whole plant and save the future fruit. Nutrients and water will be directed to the fruit that can still be saved.
Use a liquid tomato fertilizer that specifically contains calcium in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
Apply another dose of slow-release fertilizer for tomatoes - remember that tomatoes are hungry! I use both slow release and liquid/water soluble so that the plant always has a baseline amount of nutrients, while the liquid ferilizer delivers a much-needed additional dose. Always follow the instructions on both slow-release and liquid fertilizer to prevent fertilizer burn!
If you are growing tomatoes in containers: sometimes, part of the problem is that older soils will drain more quickly, meaning that your nutrients are leaching out the bottom. This gives the appearance that over-watering causes blossom end-rot, but this is technically not the case: the water is removing the calcium by draining out the bottom, causing the plant to lack nutrients. This can also happen when tomatoes are planted in the ground, if they either receive too little water - meaning that calcium uptake is reduced - and if too much water occurs during large periods of rainfall.
Try to ensure that tomatoes are well-draining whether in containers or not, and don’t forget to water them and let them dry out. Tomatoes in containers use a tremendous amount of water. So augment the soil before you add calcium. If your soil is two or more years old, or if your water drains through very quickly, you can add vermiculite, peat moss, or coconut coir to the soil and stir it in thoroughly. These are all items that hold onto moisture, and will prevent the nutrients from leaching too quickly to be used by the plant. Water your plant well, and then add the water mixed with liquid fertilizer: moistened soil acts like a wick, and holds onto moisture better. So don't add the fertilizer first!
In any case: consistent moisture is key!
Prune your indeterminate tomatoes! Learn from my errors, Plant Family: prune the suckers from your plant so that energy and nutrients go to the fruit and not the superfluous stems.
Check the pH: make sure the soil is neutral, so that the plant is able to take up calcium.
Don’t over-fertilize! Too much nitrogen - which may be caused by using an incorrect fertilizer, or alfalfa pellets, or anything that is high in nitrogen - can prevent the plant from accessing the calcium that is already in the soil. Use a soil tester to find out!
Older soils sometimes contain salts, which are usually a residue from fertilizers. I water my soil really well before I use it, which tends to remove most of the salt residue. It may also be time to replace your soil! Be sure to replace or add to your tomato soil every two to three years.
You should always be monitoring tomatoes for the first signs of blossom-end rot; if you're not sure, send us pictures! We know what it looks like, and we have great products for helping to combat the calcium deficiency. In the meantime, it's best to act before you get blossom end rot: always start with a fertilizer that is specifically marked for tomatoes and contains calcium. Use it all season, and avoid it altogether!
Now that you have all of the tools you need, you can get the most beautiful tomatoes possible!
You've done everything right. You started your tomatoes on time (check out our blog on starting tomatoes, in case you missed it!). You are fertilizing, just like you were supposed to. And your gorgeous red fruits start growing. And then — sadness and tragedy! — dark, black-ish bruises start to appear on the bottoms of your tomatoes! Read on for how to identify and treat blossom-end rot.
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You've done everything right. You started your tomatoes on time (check out our blog on starting tomatoes, in case you missed it!). You are fertilizing, just like you were supposed to. And your gorgeous red fruits start growing. And then — sadness and tragedy! — dark, black-ish bruises start to appear on the bottoms of your tomatoes! Read on for how to identify and treat blossom-end rot.
Blossom-End Rot looks fairly unappetizing, but it is a common problem, and it is surprisingly easy to treat. Bruises first appear on the bottom of the tomato, which turn into a sunken, misshapen indentation with a leathery appearance. Many people think that the tomato is ruined: it might not be. You can cut off the offending part and eat the remainder. It won't hurt you, even if it gives you the heebie jeebies. That is, until the spot gets too big: a smaller spot is harmless, while a larger spot will eventually take over the whole tomato.
It is caused when the “blossom end” of the tomato breaks down and rots. The rest of the tomato is not (immediately) rotten. Eventually, however, tomato plants with blossom-end rot will have significantly reduced yields, so it is best to intervene quickly, even if you have a tough stomach.
People also ask us for tomato varieties that won't get blossom-end rot. This is tough, because blossom-end rot is not like fusarium wilt or verticillium wilt, for which hybrid tomatoes are bred to be resistant. Blossom-end rot is not a disease. And it is not located in the tomato itself. Celebrity is a tomato variety that we carry that is not as susceptible to calcium deficiency. However, you are better off trying to prevent the problem.
So if it's not a disease, and it's not specific to certain varieties, what on earth is it?! Well folks, you may be surprised to learn that Blossom-End Rot is like osteoporosis for tomatoes: it is effectively caused by a lack of calcium in the soil.
The tomato requires calcium in order to form correctly; if it lacks calcium, the tomato will not form completely.
Luckily, blossom-end rot is one of the easiest ailments to solve! If you catch it soon enough, take the following steps:
Remove all fruit from the stems - even fruit that hasn't formed a dark spot yet. Since the flower has already turned into fruit, it is unlikely that spots won't form. Save the energy of the whole plant and save the future fruit. Nutrients and water will be directed to the fruit that can still be saved.
Use a liquid tomato fertilizer that specifically contains calcium in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
Apply another dose of slow-release fertilizer for tomatoes - remember that tomatoes are hungry! I use both slow release and liquid/water soluble so that the plant always has a baseline amount of nutrients, while the liquid ferilizer delivers a much-needed additional dose. Always follow the instructions on both slow-release and liquid fertilizer to prevent fertilizer burn!
If you are growing tomatoes in containers: sometimes, part of the problem is that older soils will drain more quickly, meaning that your nutrients are leaching out the bottom. This gives the appearance that over-watering causes blossom end-rot, but this is technically not the case: the water is removing the calcium by draining out the bottom, causing the plant to lack nutrients. This can also happen when tomatoes are planted in the ground, if they either receive too little water - meaning that calcium uptake is reduced - and if too much water occurs during large periods of rainfall.
Try to ensure that tomatoes are well-draining whether in containers or not, and don’t forget to water them and let them dry out. Tomatoes in containers use a tremendous amount of water. So augment the soil before you add calcium. If your soil is two or more years old, or if your water drains through very quickly, you can add vermiculite, peat moss, or coconut coir to the soil and stir it in thoroughly. These are all items that hold onto moisture, and will prevent the nutrients from leaching too quickly to be used by the plant. Water your plant well, and then add the water mixed with liquid fertilizer: moistened soil acts like a wick, and holds onto moisture better. So don't add the fertilizer first!
In any case: consistent moisture is key!
Prune your indeterminate tomatoes! Learn from my errors, Plant Family: prune the suckers from your plant so that energy and nutrients go to the fruit and not the superfluous stems.
Check the pH: make sure the soil is neutral, so that the plant is able to take up calcium.
Don’t over-fertilize! Too much nitrogen - which may be caused by using an incorrect fertilizer, or alfalfa pellets, or anything that is high in nitrogen - can prevent the plant from accessing the calcium that is already in the soil. Use a soil tester to find out!
Older soils sometimes contain salts, which are usually a residue from fertilizers. I water my soil really well before I use it, which tends to remove most of the salt residue. It may also be time to replace your soil! Be sure to replace or add to your tomato soil every two to three years.
You should always be monitoring tomatoes for the first signs of blossom-end rot; if you're not sure, send us pictures! We know what it looks like, and we have great products for helping to combat the calcium deficiency. In the meantime, it's best to act before you get blossom end rot: always start with a fertilizer that is specifically marked for tomatoes and contains calcium. Use it all season, and avoid it altogether!
Now that you have all of the tools you need, you can get the most beautiful tomatoes possible!
Banishing Blossom-End Rot
You've done everything right. You started your tomatoes on time (check out our blog on starting tomatoes, in case you missed it!). You are fertilizing, just like you were supposed to. And your gorgeous red fruits start growing. And then — sadness and tragedy! — dark, black-ish bruises start to appear on the bottoms of your tomatoes! Read on for how to identify and treat blossom-end rot.
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