Saskatoon is in Hardiness Zone 2 and 3, with some areas which get closer to Zone 4; we call these areas “pockets,” and the people who live here are the lucky folks who, by virtue of well-established tree cover, can sometimes experience a slightly “warmer” winter. These “pockets” offer additional insulation, so these areas might be better for some tender perennials. These pockets are caused by more established neighbourhoods with lots of trees, fences, and nearby buildings, but they are pretty unpredictable.Unless you know for certain that you live in one of these locations, you are better off to assume that you live in Zone 2b or 3a, which will help you to make informed choices about what you can plant.

The Zones determine everything about gardening: not just what plants are hardy in the area, but also the length of the growing season, the average precipitation and temperatures, and when the last frost occurs.As you move south in the province, the growing season can change from as much as a full week on either end, meaning that the frost ends – on average – a week earlier, and the first frost often occurs a week later! (When I moved toSaskatoon from southern Saskatchewan, I was so sure that there were fewer sunny days; it turns out I must be half plant, because I was totally right: there are more sunny days on average in Southern Saskatchewan. I could literally feel the difference. Unfortunately, I have not been able to translate that affinity for light into something useful, like photosynthesis).

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The last frost in Saskatoon happens (on average) during the last week of May; we usually tell people that they can plant on the MayLong Weekend (also known as the Victoria Day long weekend), but that can be dicey. If you plant on “May long,” be ready with a frost blanket!

You’ve been so patient, wondering what any of this has to do with growing tomatoes and peppers. Here it is!

By the time you are ready to plant tomatoes and peppers at the end of May, you are 6 to 8 weeks away from viable seedlings, and upwards of another 50 days until you have a harvest. I’ve done this math, and that means smaller tomatoes – varieties like Early Girl or Sweet Million – won’t have their first harvest until the last week of August! For larger tomatoes that need 70 to 80 days for most beefsteak and heirloom varieties, you won’t have delicious tomato sandwiches until mid-September. Unfortunately, there is often frost by this time of year. This is simply not sustainable tomato-growing! Not to mention peppers; you are unlikely to get any at that rate.

I have therefore done more math for you (you are very welcome; I am not a math person!): to start tomatoes from seeds, you will need to start your seeds in soil either the last week of March or the first week of April. Peppers should be started in mid- to late-March.

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To start any seedlings indoors, you will have the most success with a grow light. There are many sizes of grow lights which you can choose based on how many plants you will want to grow: every level of a small greenhouse should have its own light, while a single tray of seedlings probably just needs one grow light. Grow lights are not the same as ordinary light bulbs; grow lights have UVA and/or UVB light, which is the part of the light wavelength that is converted by photosynthesis. I may not be a math person, but Ido love physics: physics tells us that, while human eyes cannot tell the difference between the light wave-lengths, the plants certainly can!

Besides a grow light, you will also need the following:

·      New potting soil: preferably one developed for seedlings, so that the roots won’t get compacted by heavy potting soils.

·      A glass or plastic cover: both for the greenhouse effect as well as to retain moisture.

·      A seedling fertilizer: the first fertilizer helps the plant develop roots and strong stems and leaves to support itself later. You’ll transition to a more specific fertilizer later on!

·      Plant labels: so that you know which row is what!

·      A spray bottle: keep the surface of the soil moistened throughout the growing period.

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The items above are necessary for success, but the itemsbelow are also super useful:

·      A warming mat: these mats provide a small amount of continuous heat, which helps create the ideal conditions for the seedlings.

·      A small fan: consistent airflow helps the plant build up its cell walls, and it also can help to reduce the growth of molds and fungus gnats, which are naturally attracted to the warmth and humidity of the growing medium.

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For all seedlings, take a look on the package to see how long the seeds need before they can be transferred outside:

·      Onions and Leeks need 8-10 weeks, too!

·      Pumpkins need 3 to 4 weeks.

·      Cantaloupes need 2 to 4 weeks.

·      Beets need 2 to 3 weeks.

Some seeds can be direct-sown, too! It’s always good to check the type of plant you have, or better yet, ask us so we can set you up for seeding success!

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